CARTECH WOES!

[Mr Rogers]

Well, I tore it apart this evening and all looks good inside but I still need todo the soapy water trick. It seems as if the FPR is not bleeding any of the boost pressure off because I am seeing pressures upwards of 100psi I have already removed and replaced the OE regulator and I have a steady 30psi at idle. I also can change the static pressure and it holds great. I think I am going to first remove the bleeder fitting all together and do the soapy water trick. If nothing changes I will be putting the JR unit back on. Has anyone ever had a Cartech replaced? I really don't know what todo if it is bad because I can't run that JR unit for too long as we all know how they work out. If you have any info on getting one replaced please email me. Thanks

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98 GS-scR w/ 11psi JRSC, Walbro HO fuel pump, AEM cai, Endyn Kamikazi header, Godspeed testpipe, Thermal Exhaust, Skunk Works cam gears, J&S Ultra safeguard v1, RC 370's, Cartech FMU, Vortech regulator, Apex-i
V-AFC, H&R sports and KYB AGX's,ITR LSD, JR flywheel, Clutch Specialties stage 4, MSD digital 6 & HVC coil, Endyn stepper pulley, NX nitrous and of course to slow down, KVR X-drill F&R rotors and Carbon Kevlar pads and V1 to signal the slowing down.
Best et ==>13.6 @ 103mph w/ 2.3 60ft on Nitto drag radials @ 8psi of boost

[lundgren]

If you don't install the restrictor, it won't work.

[Holden]

I've been very happy with mine. No leaking and the bleeder has been very easy to use to tune max-FP.

I have noticed that after heavy boosting, the bottom end idle FP sometimes sticks 5psi or so high for a while. This must be what zip is talking about with sanding down the piston bore. I'll keep that in mind.

Mr Rogers: If you're bleeder is not having any effect and the restrictor is installed properly, something is wrong. Tear it down like zip said.

Greg

[zip]

Yeah, I went through two units myself until I found out what the problem was. The Cartech's don't seal properly around the screw threads. Tolerances are all off. The gasket design and piston setup blows chunks. You have to modify the FMU to keep it dependable enough to keep it from leaking in boost, or vac conditions. You also have to sand smooth the piston bore to keep the diaphragm from sticking. I also used liquid gasket that came w/ the JR kit and teflon tape to resolve the constant air leaks coming from the Cartech's screw recesses. I wonder if the 2025 has the same problems but with prettier packaging.

[94Integra]

Mr. Rogers,
Please ensure that you have installed the check valve the correct way.

If I remember correctly, the arroww should be pointing to the bleeder. Installed the wrong way would prevent the boost from being bleeded.

[rjaffey]

Did you install the restrictor?

[kannon]

I bought my Cartech a few months back, and after reading all this I'm glad I haven't installed it yet.

When I install that stepper pulley, I dont want to have to worry about potential fuel delivery problems. Should I even install the cartech at all? It just sounds really scary.

[TrustGs-R]

just a random curiousity...

does usage of the bleeder (open) affect boost pressures at all? You would think it would, right?

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96 gsr hitting 12s
90 hybrid hatch hitting 14s

[The ANTI-RICE]

Just out of curiosity.....

Why dont you guys just use the VORTECH FMU? I have a 6psi kit and im still with the JR unit, so i am un-biased on all 3 i suppose...

It seems like all ive been hearing is LEAKING CARTECH-CARTECH SUCKS......etc...

I have an endyn stepper pulley, but ive just really lost interest in upgrading more power on the car, im jus concentrating on AUTOX SKILL and buying some new toys for the dirtbike for race season...

Jus being curious thats all,
Tony

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96 GSR, Kills RICE in 4.96 seconds...
Support R.A.S.R., take it to the track and be a REAL RACER.

Come see MY world... http://maxpsigsr.overboost.net

[rjaffey]

I've zero complaint regarding my Cartech FMU. No leaks and no sticking. The reason I didn't buy a Vortech SFMU: Price and simplicity.